Buttonhole machine



H. C. MILLER.

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.2, 1918.

1,438,848, Patented Dec. 12, 1922.

-6 SHEETS-SHEET H. c. MILLER, BUTTONHOLE MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.2. 1918.

Patented Dec. 12,1922.

' H. c. MILLER. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLED AUG.2. 1918.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

Patented Dec. 12, 1922..

H. G. MILLER.

BUTTONHOLE'MACHINE.

- APPLICATION FILED Aue.2. 191a.

Patented Dec. 12, 1922;

6 SHEETSSHEET 5- L h i .I 1, a?

H. c. MILLER. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG.2I 1918- 1 ,438,848 Patented Dec. 12, 1922.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6- amawiioz Patented Dec. 12,1922.

UNIT ED stares CHENEY C. MILLER, 0E WATERFORD, NEW YORK.

. BUTTONIIOLE MACHINE.

Application filed August 2, 1918. Serial No. 248,029.

To (Allis/Loin itmag concern: y i Be it known that I, HENRY .G. MILLE citizen of the United States of America, residing at Waterford, in the county of claratoga and State 01"- New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole Machines, of which the following is a specification. I I

This invention relates to improvements in button hole, machinesv i fine of the objects of the invention isto provide safety mechanism under control of the thread to prevent operation of the cutting blade ii. the stitches are not properly formed. or should either the upper or lower thread break or give out.

'l'inother object of the inventioniis to pro vide means under control of the upper thread to prevent the usual manual raising of the clamp should the stitches be improperly formed, or should the thread pay out or become broken.

further object of the invention isto provide in addition to the usual primary automatic release of the stop motion after.

the stitching mechanism has performed its cycle of operatioma secondary trip or release, to insure of the usual cam which operates the cutting blade imparting the necessary movement to positively act to drive the cutting blade down the requisite distance to torma perfect cut, and to permit return of the cutting blade to its proper normal position. This trip is so arranged and timed, that the stop motion is tripped and is free to be disconnected from the power means at a predetermined point in the revolution of the cam every time the machine is operated. Although the delicate primary releasing mechanism will be tripped, the cam will not be released from the power means until the scondary releasingmeans is reached, whereby the cutter blade is sure of being recipro-. cated itsfull stroke, which effectually pre vents breaking or bending the blade by devices subsequently operatedin the complete cycle of operation of the machine Another object of the invention is the provision of means for gradually shifting the needle bar to form the end barring stitches,

in lieu of suddenly throwing the parts. to shift from the throw'when making the'side stitches, to the throw equal to thet'ull width of the end-barring stitches. The gradual shiftingof the needle bar, together with the usual width of vibratory movement pro duces end bars formed of a series of short stitches, each a trifle longer than the preceeding one, and a series of long stitchesequalin length to the full width of the bar, laid over the shorter stitches. Q

The purpose of this gradual movement is to prevent bending or breaking of the needle, if per'chance the delicate adjustments of the various parts are not accurate,,or through wear the timing is incorrect.

If either or both conditions, are present, the fabric willdrag the needleand bend or break it. By my in'iprovement if this condition; should be present, the short distance the needleis dragged will not bend or break it. v

l have discovered that the increment of movement of a piece of fabric between stitches used in forming button holes is so slight, it is not necessary to employ a step by step feed motion, and therefore one oi the objects ofthis invention is to provide means for continuously feeding the fabric during the stitching operation. I

T he invention also aims to improve the construction and arrangement of the clutch and the cooperating mechanism to obviate the necessity of nicety of adjustment of "parts, and to insure of the clutch working at the proper time in the cycle of operation of the machine in case of wear.

In addition to the foregoing objects, my present invention comprehends improvements in the-details of construction and arrangement of parts to increase the efficiency of the machine as a whole, all of which will be hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings s I Fig. 1 is a perspective ,viewof my im proved machine.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation. opposite side of Fig. 3 1s a view fromthe the machine. I 1 Fig. t is a bottom plan viemparts being omitted to illustrate the connections employed to operate the improvements.

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic plan view.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the thread tension means.

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic section on the line 77, of Fig. 2.

Fig. 8 is a detail perspective view of the clutch mechanism.

Fig. 9 is a detail perspective view of the thread tension controlling mechanism.

Fig. 10 is a detail end view of the stop motion device.

Fig. 11 is a detail perspective view of same.

F 12 is a detail side elevation of the secondary tripping mechanism.

Fig. 13 is a detail view of the latch.

Fig. 1 1 is a diagrammatic elevation of the secondary releasing device, the parts being in operative position.

Fig. 15 is a similar view, the parts being in normal position.

F 16 is a diagrammatic view of the end barring; stitches.

Fig. 1? is a detail section thru the pivot of the lock lever.

Fig. 18 is a detail section taken thru the thread control device.

The improvements are shown in connection with a well known Singer button hole machine, and it will. be necessary in the description to describe in detail many of the old parts to obtain a comprehensive understanding of the various improved mechanisms, their functions and time of cooperative operation.

1 indicates the base of the machine and 2 the arm rising therefrom. In the arm is mounted a drive shaft 3. connected in the usual manner to operate the needle bar 41-. and the lower stitch forming; mechanism 1". Gn the drive shaft is a beveled pinion 5, which meshes with a beveled pinion 6, which operates the automatic end barring mechanism in the upper part of the arm. On the drive-shaft is a worm 7, which engages a worm gear 8, mounted on a vertical shaft 9. The worm .e'ea-r 8 is provided with a sleeve and on the lower edge ofsame are ratchet teeth or serrations 10., which form a clutch member 11. Slidably mounted on the shaft 9. is a second clutch member 12,

I provided with ratchet teeth or serrations 13,

drive shaft 3, to the vertical shaft 9. The

clutch member 12 is provided with an an nular groove 18, and engaging therewith is a yoke 19, pivoted on a pin 20, 011 a frame 21, suitably supported in the vertical member of the arm 2. From the yoke extends a substantially vertical lever 22, so arranged as to be engaged by the end of a lever 23, commonly employed in the Singer button hole sewing machine to disconnect the driving-1 shaft from the vertical shaft to stop the feed motion when forming end barring stitches. This lever is provided with a hip; 24-, with which the forked end 25 of a link 26, engages, the link being pivotally mounted on the end of a lever 27, pivoted on the side of the arm. as usual in machines of this type. The lever cooperates with automatic mechanism in the top of the arm under the plate 28, to so actuate the mechanism to form end barring stitches. As this mechanism forms no part of the present invention, except, it operates in se quence with my improvements, it is not thought necessary to specifically illustrate or'describe it in detail. it may be stated however that the tension device 29, usually released to free the upper thread after the last purl stitch is formed is utilized in connection with my thread control.

On the lower end of the vertical shaft is pinion 30, which meshes with a gear wheel 31. on a shaft Also fast on the shaft 32, just above the gear wheel 31 is a cam disk 33, proviced with two appropriately formed cam grooves 3 1 and 35. The cam groove 3%, acts to continuously reciprocate a work support 36. to feed the fabric. while the cam groove 35 acts. through appropriate connections to laterally move said work support.

Fast on the shaft 32. just below the horizontal member of the arm 2, is a double cam element 39 provided on its edges with two cams d0, each of which. in present known machines terminate abruptly to produce sudden drop to shift the needle bar to form the end barring stitches. In lieu of this usual sudden termination of each cam, I bevel off the ends, as at 11, so as to permit a gradual, but stead drop of the end of the lever 27 at the time the end barringstitches are formed. It is to-be understood that this C Several (say three or four, more or less) increased vibrations of the needle bar will erm 1' 10 get time. the preee e L the hutienhelen 1 eeeeee g be made, and eereespemhngly ehert sti hes mcleaemglei 1 mllhe 50 edge the reaches its n ebuemen; 61, e disposed that when e n leverfs ale-pr d, the st el-a1 lug will enem and the reek shaft will H- movement.

lever rvihieha i 6% O 4' 68, provided 9'. The slot re- I v am extended arm Where L 1s eluteit my be Well he point out w pi die the lock level 57,

mew we e h 3 e e endite upper hooked e 1e moier le -eedle, sufiicienh lever when l 331* is actuated, to ;e (i the hen the loimel. move the zmitme 1t 61, from the path of the stud 55.

Plvmzed moment 18,

the needle in; necessary to 1th bare-m v 0 Mill a Li,

H iahe link 68 is T+shape inter- I vwpe r end 'of the vertical member being p11 ided With a, flanged nose we wed to e gaige under the e 79 which is a, H ib 2 4.2; the Cycle (if stitching break the pllea up stitches the m 'nebe correctly 5 er her the end of 1 :5 funeezens in proper seeemee this chieg Gees hot mu 12., mm when deheai pares and edmere-51 and. the

4c! .menhee 7 of he "suepers'ied 'en the nose 81,075 a bell crank iev r 82,191?

1* end of the horizontal h h e. any slight ered'to a bracket T op- Wear fwul ehei .i; am; :iebly pesite end of the be crank lever is ynievhhux hthie e] we in ighe neeeHe 1106 hewith 2 depending: reflex 85 which Tee in the 0111 the fabric When @he pe'ih e1? ee S6, fixed enthe vertical shaft ffplece; There Suit 32.1mm? i' V e reek 5 em'nk lever 1e bell needle being caught, withd ELF/HOSE, e1 4 under the me Ber 20 ehe llterponehii at about the etiea-i time the'cutting ar is rje he e'gjel eteah which tie j 9710 rock the interponent 11116! 0; th e 21:11:51. v U11 2, pin. ex'ten gnemhey 80, of a the end e1? an opera bent around the hi k sieion i el y control means As previeush renal ftezeien device 29021 top of? e is: employed and efljeeent hereto 99, on which is leoeeiy supported 2 Lon lever 93, and a yoke 9 Theyoke isextended from the 909 e115. iksiend is bent verily at 9.5,

' beyond the pest and hes ove? the frieien Myer 0'3, A light spring;- 96 is eenneeted to the friction lever e en the legs of the yoke, and his oppeelte enfl is et'ieehed "so the hen; 1170 end of the yoke The teneie'n and dispv tion 0% t? spring; is; such as to chew the friction lever up against the underside of the euived lee; 9f the yoke,

(l betwee 64: pyovidedfat one interpenent is nm'melly and fhe outer member of the 'eke iseur vetifl and against a stop pin 98, Ql63611d111g from the leg.

T he yoke, hence the friction lever are ad justably supported on the post by a set screw 99, to permit of a limited radial adjustment of the end. of the friction lever to determine the length of thread to be drawnstood that the thread tension is brought into play to perform its function at this particular time in the cycle of'operation to conof the friction lever 93 is flared and thinned,

and operates over the opening 104:, but the spring; 96 normally holds the flared end slightly spaced from the upper surface of the block to allow free passage of the thread when the tension control is inactive, as best shown in Fig. 18.

On the upper end. of the rod 90 is secured a cross head 105, and dependingfrom the opposite end is a pin 106 which is disposed above and in alignment with the opening: 104. The lower end of the pin terminates above the flared end of the friction lever the two just about touching when the parts are in normal position.

The thread. comes from a suitable source of supply, thence passes over a tension check, 106, and through the tension device 29, and around the pin 103, and over the upper surface of the block, and then down through the opening 102. From the block 100, the thread is directed over another check 108, on the arm of the machine, and

. is then led to a tension device 109, through a spring guide 110, under a fixed hook guide 111, and thence upwardly through an eve in the take up lever 112 then downwardly through a guide slot 113, to the eye of the needle.

In the cycle of operation of the machine, the latch 82 is released a short time before the cutter is to be operated and the interponent 78 is rocked slightly by the spring 87, until the end of the pin-106, presses the flared end of the friction lever 93, against the tension of spring 96, and the thread is frictionally engaged on the surface of the block 100, and thereb r the thread is again tensioned at the time the set of barring stitches is formed. This action causes the stitches to be sewed in tight to strengthen the buttonhole, and tie in the thread. As

mes es the barring stitches are formed the friction lever 93, by reason of the forward movement of the thread is moved step by step from under the pin 106, and before the last stitch is made, the parts are so timed that the rear edge of the flared end of the friction lever frees the pin 106, and promptly the spring 87, rocks the interponent 78, and the rod 90, and cross head 105 drop, the pin falling into the opening 10d and the nose 79, coming into position under the stud 70. The parts are now in position-to cause actuation of the cutter bar when lever 64; is rocked by depression of rod 67 by earn 126 to form the out between the stitches in the fabric to complete the button hole.

Forfurther reference it may be stated that when lever 71 is rocked it exerts an upward pull on the book of the link 78, and rocks the lock lever 57 upwardly which positions the abutment 61, above the path of movement of the stud 55, to permit the operator to subsequently lift the clamp, etc.

Let it be supposed that the needle thread breaks, or for some reason becomes slack, or the lower thread pays out and the upper thread fails to properly stitch, then it is, that the automatic thread tension control performs its function to prevent the cutter bar operating and damaging the fabric, and prevents manual lifting of the clamp.

If the thread in front of the block 100, be slack, when the latch lever 82, is tripped as it will be near the end of the stitching operation, and the pin 106 drops on the friction lever 93, even though the stitching mechanism is still operating to form the last of the end bar stitches, no movement will be imparted to said friction lever 98. Therefore the rod will be held suspended, and the nose 7 9, of the inte-rponent 78, cannot get under the stud 70.

The result is that when the lever 64, is rocked. the slot 69, permits the link 68 to ride on the stud 70, and no movement will be imparted to the cutting bar. Since the abutment 61, on the lock lever 57 is now in the path of the stud 55, the operator, even if she has overlooked the fact that the cutter bar has not been operated, cannot lift the clamp, as the action is locked.

The trouble with the thread can be cured, and the stitching mechanism, is again started and the same defective stitching is worked over, and when completed the cutter operates to make the slit. It will thereforebe seen that the tension of the thread not only controls the action of the cutter, but it also controls the clamp.

Reverting to the transverse shaft 48, it has secured thereon, adjacent the operating handle 49. a forwardly projecting block 112, bifuracted at its front end to receive a roller 113 to engage the tail piece 114, of a work clamp 115, and on its side is a cam 116. This 1 The stopniotion and, starting mechanism as shown, arethe same as thatinow; infuse, except thatspecific additions have been made to render the time of operation sure and festive. is Well known'when the trip rod 52, is depressed, the stop andstart;niecha;v nism is rocked forwardly on "pivots 125,;to shift the beltfrom the loose.to the fastpula ley, and that when the stitching operation is completed, thismov nent is reversed, and momentum is large I ,epended upon to to: tate a cam 12G, to'dcpressthe rod 67, Which operates the cutter bill; Due to this latter. tact the movement 'ot'the cutter bardoes not always get the proper momentum, which results the liiladereinaining in the fabric, and insubsequent operations in the cycle of movement of the machine, the blade be comes bent or broken;

l n the present improvement I take advan- "(e of the present construction, and-the ft m , Ala) ears and. passing therethrough is a substantially rightangula'r trip 134. "The leg of the trip which passes through the extension cut away to form a catch 135, which is normally held in a vertical position by a spring 136. i

Pivoted on the sideof the arm is a J37, the rear end of same being cut avwry to form a latch 138 to the'catch 185'; This arrangement composes What I termth'e secondarry locking; and releasing mecha- .Vhen the frame 128, of the stop andstarty [mechanism is thrown forward toa'operate the stitching mechanism, the parts are held s tvith aicam, surface, 117, on,

movements incident thereto, and arrange: "neans which absolutely insures otthe parts han portion 182, is provided with spaced located under the base of the machine, such No. 743213, dated November 3, 1903. When in this posltionthe catch 135,, is slightly in by primar'y automatic locking means 139,.

means being substantially the same as the. nonstructum disclosed in the patent .to Allen advance otthe latch;138, agveryslightdisthe time the stitching mechanism is perform? .ing its usualyfunction, the relationship between the catch and latch, and between the endv 134i of'the, trip and. the cam remain thesame When the stitching operation is -tance as SlIOVVIlHi H Flg. 14, and the trip is ust outset the ,path of movement of the car-11 126, a correspondmg distance. During completed, the primary releasing means. 139,.

is actuated, and theirameof thestop and start mechanism 1s free to be uncoupled, and fmoves the short-distance. (indicated at .141)

between the latch and the catch of the, secs.

"ondary locking and releasing mechanism,

and is momentarily held. This action positions the end 134%, of the trip in the, path:

this occurs, the leg oi the trip is turned in the gears of the block andthecutout portionor catch is turned horizontally, and the the cam 126 strikes the trip 134. When,

flange of the latch 1'38 iszreleased and. the

tramereturnsto normal position and the belt is shittedto the loose pulley in the customary manner. l

o By thisnieanspevery time the cutter bar is operated by the cam 143 the ponit of release jofthe-power is identically the same in each cycle oi operation of the machine accurate timing and thennl which results s V parting of a definite stroke-to the bar which insures of the blade cutting the fabric. and

" The secondary lockingand '=releasiug means also properly times. the movement-to insure suliicient momentum to bringthevfiat face oi the nose. of the cam against the rod can) permit the endoi the latter to enp; ge its seat.

As an additional flllli 'g' safety means to preventfail to assume its normal position, the urothe clamp 115 or operation ottrim-- mere it the stop and start mechanisni should jection 1% on the longitudinal shaft 119 is so disposed, with roclzin of the handle 49.

it per chance the frame 1.48, did not settle 122 'WUlllCl not assume vated position.

reference to the extension 121, on the transverse shaft 48, as to preclude That is to say,

normal position and the lower end or" the projection 120' would lie in? the path of the extension 121. If" the operator should attempt to rock the transverse shaft 48, forwardly in direction of arrow 6, obviously she would find it locked. Therefore neither the clamp can be raised, nor the trimmers operated until the frame 128 is in its proper position.

The clamp and the trimmers are operated in substantially the same manner as described in my copending application for patent filed Sept. 15, 1917, Serial No. 191,573, and therefore but a brief description of the operation will be here given. 1

The clamp 115, is conventionally illustrated and is adapted to be manually raised or lowered to insert or remove the fabric. It is provided with the tail piece 114 which lies under the roller 13, and when the operator rocks the shaft in direction of the arrow 6, the tail piece is depressed and the clamp is elevated. Before this action takes place, the cam 116, engages the cam surface 117 on the lever 118 which rocks the latter, and through appropriate connections 160, under the base 1, the lower trimmer 161, is operated to sever the lower thread. The upper thread trimming mechanism 162, is in the mean time automatically operated by the arm 163 on the shaft 119.

The operation of the various parts has been given somewhat in detail, but it is believed a brief general description of the sequence of operations of a complete cycle of movement of the machine will impart a more comprehensive understanding of the invention.

Assume the parts are in the position of rest as shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and it is desired to form a buttonhole. The operator pulls the handle 49, to rock the shaft 48, in direction of the arrow A, which causes the stud to engage the cam 60, of the lock lever 57, and thereby present the abutment 61, in the reverse path of movement of said stud, and at or about the time this movement occurs the trigger 50, engages the projection 51, and the primary locking and releasing mechanism is actuated and the startingmechanism is thrown into operation. This action also sets the secondary locking and releasing mechanism.

The work support carrying the fabric is continuously moved toward the rear to form a row of purl stitches and is stopped, and the end barring stitches are formed, and then the work is laterally shifted, and the movement of the work support is reversed and the other purl stitches are formed. The movement of the work support is again stopped and the second end barring stitches are formed, and the work support is again laterally shifted, and moved rearwardly a short distance and a few additional side stitches are formed due to the primary and secondary lock and releasing devices.

When forming the second end barring stitches the latch 82, is automatically operated and the interponent 7 8, is released momentarily but is promptly held by the pin 106, falling on the lever 93, which places the thread on the block 100, under tension. As the thread for the second barring stitches is pulled, the lever 93, is frictionally operated or moved step by step, and immediately the opening 104, is uncovered, the pin falls, which permits the interponent to assume position to operate the cuttter. The stitching operation having been completed, the primary lock and releasing means is tripped, and the frame 128, is permitted to move back slightly but it is caught by the secondary lock and releasing means and is momentarily held until the nose 143, of the cam strikes the end, of the trip 134, which permits the stop motion to come into play. In the meantime the cutter bar is operated, and the lever 71, lifts the hooked connection 73, and restores the lock lever 57, to its normal position. Of course, when the longitudinal shaft 119, is returned to its position of rest the upper trimming mechanism is automatically actuated to trim the upper thread.

The operator now reverses the movement of the handle 49, in direction of arrow B, and the lever 118, is operated to trim the lower thread, and subsequently the roller 113, engages the tail piece 114, and the clamp is raised. This brief cycle of operation occurs if the parts are properly timed, and the stitches are properly formed. Suppose, however, that the upper thread is slack or breaks, or the bobbin thread plays out, or stitches are skipped, or something occurs to prevent return of the parts to proper position, then it is that the various improvements described perform their respective functions.

If something is wrong with either the upper or lower thread, tension on the upper thread is immediately relaxed, consequently when the pin 106, falls on the lever the latter remains stationary, and therefore the interponent cannot assume position to cause actuation of the cutter bar. Hence the lock lever 57, is not lifted which leaves the abutment 61, in the path of the stud 55. If the operator should attempt to rock the sh aft 48, in direction of the arrow B, to trim the lower thread and lift the clamp, she will find the parts locked. The trouble with the thread is cured, and the handle is again operated in direction of the arrow A, and the stitching operation is repeated on the same piece of fabric, originally clamped. If the second operation produces properly formed stitches the operator can now rock the shaft 48, in direction of arrow B, as the lock lever 57, was rocked upwardly far enough to remove the abutment 61, from the path of movement of the stud 55. This, of course, permits of the trimming of the lower thread and the lifting of the clamp.

Now let itbe assumed that the-stitching was properly formed, but the frame 128,:1nd the parts co-operating therewith failed to come back to proper position; Then theprojection 120, lies in the path of the extension 1 cutter blade butit revents liftin the clamp, so that the fabric is saved and can readily be stitched, Where originally clamped and gaged. 'So also with the safety device for preventing operation of the clamp, if the" stop motion fails to properly sea-t. Were it not for this device,great might result to the'blade ivlientrimming, if the blade failed to assume normal position.

Too much importance cannot be placed on the formation of the cams to permit gradually increased vibration to the needle bar when changing from positionWhenforming purl. stitches, to position for forming end barringstitches. This arrangement not only saves the needle, but it also and pulling of the fabric.

What 1 claim is 1. In combination, a buttonhole machine,

includinga lmttonliolecuttinp; blade, means for operating the/cutting blade, including an interponent, and a device operated to be moved by the normafeed'of the thread for releasin; the interponent to operate the cutter blade when stitches are properly formed.

2. In combination, a buttonholcmachine,v including a buttonhole "cutting blade, means for automatically operating the cutting blade, a 'normall dlsconnected interponent J i v and means released \vhenthe thread is 1 t -h tn -o proper y ice 0 se L e inteiponen 0 porn nnt the cutter operating means to actuate the cutting blade When stitches are properly formed.

In combination, a buttonhole machine including, buttonhole cutting blade, means for operating the cutting blade, including an interponent, means for holding the interponent in inoperative position, and means actuated by the thread when same is under proper feed and tension and being pulled off to formstitches to release the means which holds the interponent, whereby to permit the cutting blade operating means to actuate said cutting blade.

4t. In combination, a buttonhole machine, includinga buttonhole cutting blade, means for operatingthe cutting blade, andmeans operated tobe moved by the tension and feed of the thread for permitting the norsaves tearing mal actuation of the cutting blade, said means becoming inactive and preventing operation of the cutting blade if the thread becomes slaclr through imperfectly formed stitches or it the thread breaks.

'5; In combination, a buttonhole machine, including buttonhole cutting blade, means for operating the cutting blade, and means actuated to be moved by the thread when undertensionand feed topermit the operatingmeans to the cutting blade when the thread is properly tensioned.

6. In combination, buttonhcle machine,

including buttcn'hole cutting blade and operating means therefor, said operating means including a device WlllCll'lS actuated to be moved by the feeding of the thread when saidthread is under tension, to permit the operation. of thecutting blade and is rendered inactive when the thread breaks or becomes slack to prevent operationof the cutting blade. p

7. In combination, a buttonhole machine, includinga buttonhole cutting blade and operating mechanism therefor, and means made active by the normal stitching in of the thread at a predetermined time during the stitching operation to permit the open ating, means to actuate the cutting blade,

said means bein rendered inactive when Z: the thread isslack or breaks so as to prevent 1 operation of saidcutting blade.

8.- In combination, a buttonhole machine, including upper and lower stitch forming mechanism and a buttonhole cutting blade, means for operating the cutting; blade, and a device rendered active only when the upper thread is properlysewed in to permit operation of the cutting; blade, said device remaining inactive if either the upper orlower thread breaks or plays out,'or the stitches ship and the threat becomes slack and thereby prevents operation of the cutting blade. U

9. In combination, a buttonhole 3' achine, including a buttonhole cutting blade and means for operating same, a worlr clamp, means for operating the work clamp, and a device actuated only when the tension and sewing in of the thread is normal to permit actuation of the cutting blade and the work clamp, said device when inactive due to slack or broken thread preventing actuation of thecutting blade and Worlrclamp.

' 10. lln combination, a buttonhole machine,

'i'bereby preventing operation of the cutting blade and operation oi' the work clamp.

11. In con ion, a buttcnhole machine including a o t onhole cu ting blade, means for oper i t nent, and a member operable with the interponent, a device associated wi h the member and which lies'adfacent the thread but normally unatl'ected thereby, and an automatically actuated trip to release the interponent which permits the member to engage the device associ ted therewith to cause the latter to contact with the thread and be moved by said thread o permit the inter ponent to actuate the cutting blade, the said device being nactive it the thread breaks or becomes slacl: and thereby prevents operation of the cutting blade.

12. In combination, buttonhole machine including a buttonhole cutting blade, and means operating same, said means including an automat' -y tripped interponcnt, a th id control UQVlCG operatively associated with the intcrponent and comprising a thread guide, a spring held thread enelement norma y spaced from the thread guidcto permit free passage of the thread, and a connection between the thread engaging element and the interponent to cause said element to engage the thread on the thread guide when the interponent is tripped, whereby the tension of the thread actuates the element to permit the interponentto be positioned to cause actuation of the cutting lade.

13. A button hole machine, including a buttouhole cutting blade, means for operating same including an interponent, a thread control device comprising an element normally held out oi? engagement with the thread, a device between the element and the interpo-nent, and means for adjusting the position of the element with reference to the device to determine the duration of time the element operates, the device when the interponent is tripped causing the element to engage the tnread which actuates said element if the tension of the thread is normal to permit operation of the cutting bar, the element remaining inactive ii the thread breaks or becomes slack.

14. In combination, a buttonhole machine comprising a buttonhole cutting bar and a work clamp, a thread controlled device actuated only when the thread is under normal tension and sewing in and means actuated by the thread control device to permit operation of the cutting blade and the work clamp, the thread control device remaining inactive if the thread breaks or becomes slack, there by preventing operation or cuttingblade and the work clamp.

15.'ln combination, a buttonhole machine including a work clamp and a starting element, a locking lever between the starting same including an lIltfp0-' lement and the won: clamp, and a thread control which when the thread is being moved and sewed in under normal tension actuates the locking lever and permits of the starting element being moved to raise the work clamp, but which when the thread is slack or breaks remains inactive and leaves the locking lever in position to prevent rais ing or the work clamp.

16. In combination, a buttonhole machine, inclu ing a buttonho-le cutting blade and a work clamp, a starting element, a stud carried by the starting element, a locking lever having an abutment and a cam with which the stud cooperates to set said lever in looking position, and a thread control device operated only when the thread is being sewed in and connections betweenthe cutting blade, locking lever and the thread control device, whereby when the thread breaks or becomes slack the thread control device remains inactive and the clamp is locked and the cut ting blade is rendered inactive.

17. A buttonhole machine comprising stitching mechanism, a buttonhole cutting blade, thread feeding devices, including an element automatically brought into operative position to engage the thread by the cut ting blade controlling mechanism and sub sequently moved step by step only when the thread is properly sewed in, whereby to permit operation of the cutting blade.

18. A buttonhole machine comprising upper and lower stitch forming mechanism, a buttonhole cut ing blade, thread controlling devices incluling an element automatically brought into operative position to engage the upper thread by the cutting blade actuatingmechanism and moved step by step only when the upper and lower threads are properly tensioned, whereby to permit operation of the cutting blade.

19. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a buttonhole cutting blade, means to cause the stitch forming mechanism to form predetermined side and end barring stitches and stop, thread actuated devices including an element automatically brought into operative position to engage the thread by the cutting blade controlling mechanism at or about the time the last end barring stitches are to be formed and moved step by step only when the upper thread is under normal tension, whereby to increase the tension on the thread and permit operation of the cutting blade.

20. A buttonhole machine, comprising stitch forming mechanism, cutting blade, stop and start mechanism, a cam. for actuating the cutting blade, primary releasing means to actuate the stop mechanism, and a secondary releasing means brought into 0perative position when the primary releasing means is tripped, whereby to insure of the cam operating on the cutting blade actuating Cir means at the same predetermined point in every cycle of operation of the machine.

21. Si buttonhole machine, a comprlsing stitch forming mechanism, a cutting blade, stop and start mechanism, a cam for actuating the cutting blade, primary releasing means to actuate the stop mechanism, and a secondary releasing means brought into operative position when the primary releasing means is tripped, to hold said stop mechanism to be subsequently tripped when the cam reaches a predetermined point in its rotary motion to insure of the cutting blade actuatingmechanismbeinp; actuated at the same definite point in each "cycle of operation of the machine. c

22, A buttonhole inacliine,-comprising stitch forming mechanism, a cuttingblade, stop and start mechanism, primary releasing means to release the stop mechanism after the predetermined stitching operation is completed, a cam to operate the cutting blade, secondary releasing means, including a latch and a trip, the trip being moved with the stop and start mechanism and adapted to be positionedi'oi operation to release the latch when the primary releasing means releases the stop mechanism, wherebyv to insure of the cam actuatingthe cutting blade'actuating'mechanism at the same predetermined point in each cycle of operation of the ma chine. u p Y 23. A buttonhole machine, comprising stitchingforming mechanism, a cutting blade, stop and start mechanism, a cam to actuate the cutting blade, secondary releasing means comprising a trip carried by the stop. and start mechanisinand a latchposi tioned to cooperate with the trip when the stop and start mechanism is operated in one direction, primary releasing means to release the stop and start mechanism when predetermined stitches have been formed, the latch momentarily holding the. stop mechanism and positioning the trip after being released by the primary releasing mechanism, whereby When the trip is actuated the cam actuates the cutting blade with the same momentum in every cycle of operation ct the machinej l c' 24. A. buttonhole machine, comprising a stitch forming mechanism, a cutting blade, a cam "for actuating the cutting blade, stop and start in e chanism, a (Work clamp, primary releasing means to release the stop and start mechanism, secondary releasing means which is set when the stop and start mechanism is operated in one direction, and which moin'entarily holds the stop and startinec hanisni inits reverse movement when the primary releasing means is actuated, and which subsequently releases the stop and start mechanism when the cam reaches a predetermined point, and means under control of the" stop and start mechanism for preventing therewith raising of the work clamp if the parts fail to assume normal position.

25; A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, means associated therewith to form a predetermined number of stitches and stop, a cutting blade, and

means operable by the tension end feed of the thread when certain of said stitches are formed to permit operation of the cutting blade if the predetermined number of stitches have been properly formed up to the time of operation of said cutting blade.

26. A buttonhole machine comprising" stitch forming mechanism, means associated to cause said stitch forming mechanism to complete one cycle of operation and stop, a work clamp, a cutting blade and means operable by the thread only during a definite period of the cycle of operation of the cutting blade and permit lifting of the clamp.

27. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch torming mechanism, means associated therewith to cause the stitch forming mechanism to form side and end barring stitches, and thread tensioning means operative only at or about the time the last end bar stitches are being formed.

. 28. A buttonhole machine comprising: stitch forming mechanism, means associated therewith to cause the stitch forming mecha nism to form side and end barring stitches, and thread tensioning means operative only at or about the time the last end bar stitches are being formed,'and thenonly if the preceding stitches be properly formed.

29. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, means associated therewith to cause the stitch forming mechanism to form side and end barring stitches,

a cutting blade, thread tensioning means operative only at or about the time the last end bar stitches are being termed to cause ,theend bar stitches to be Worked in under tension a nd permit operation of the cutting blade. I

30. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, means associated therewith to cause the stitch forming mechanism to form side and end barring stitches, a cutting blade, a work clamp, and thread tensioning means operative only at or about the timejthe last end bar stitches are being formed to cause the end bar stitches to be worked in under tension'and permit operation of the cutting blade, and permit lifting;

stitches are formed and then only it the stitches be properly formed, and means between the cutting blade and the work clamp to actuate the worl: clamp releasing mechanism during the operation of. the cutting blade.

32. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, a cutting blade, actuating mechanism between the work clamp and the cutting blade, including a latch and a resetting link, means connected to the actuating mechanism and operated only by the thread when under tension and the stitches are properly formed, whereby the cutting bar may operate and actuate the link and set the latch to permit or the worlr clamp being raised.

A. buttonhole machine comprising stitch formingmechanism, a cutting blade, a work clamp, and means only operated during a portion of the stitching operation by the tension and feed or the thread to permit operation of the cutting blade and lifting of the work clamp.

34. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, means associated therewith to cause the stitch forming mechanism to form side and end barring stitches, and thread tensioning means operative only at the time certain of the end barring stitches are being formed.

A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, and thread tens sion means controlled at apredetermined time in a stitching operation by the tension and feed o1 the thread.

36. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, and thread tension means brought into operation only at a predetermined time in a stitching operation and controlled by the tension and feed of the thread, but inoperative if the thread tension slackens.

37. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a main thread tensioning,- means, means for automatically releasing said main. tensioning means, and means subsequently operated to further apply tension on said thread while stitching, said means being; controlled by the tension and feed of the thread.

38. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch Forming mechanism, a main thread tensioning means, means for automatically releasing said main tensioning means, and means subsequently operated to further apply tension on said thread while stitching, said means being controlled by the tension and feed of the thread and released from said control only if the stitches be properly formed.

39. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, main thread tensioning means, automatic means for releasing said main threadten- 1 raseae sioning means, other means to subsequently apply tension to said thread, said other means being controlled by the tension and the feed of the thread, and mechanism be tween said latter means and the work clamp to permit lifting ofthe later only when said subsequent tension is applied.

40. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, a buttonhole cutting blade, main thread tensioning means, automatic means for releasing said thread tensioning means, other means to subsequently apply tension to said thread, said other means being controlled by the tension and feed of the thread, and mechanism between said latter means and the work clamp and the buttonhole cuttlng blade to permit lifting of said clamp and operation of said cutting blade only when the stitches are properly termed.

ll. A buttonhole machine comprising an tomatic mechanism for forming purl stitches and end bar stitches of different lengths,

automatic thread tensioning mechanism operated to tension the thread at the time the purl stitches are formed, and other thread tensioning means brought into operation when certain of the end bar stitches are formed, said other thread tensioning means being controlled by the tension and feed of the thread, said last mentioned tension means being released only when the stitches are properly formed.

42. A buttonhole machine comprising automatic mechanism for forming purl stitches and end bar stitches of different lengths, a buttonhole cutting blade, automatic thread tensioning; mechanism operated when the purl stitches are formed, other thread tensioning mechanism brought into operation when certain of the end bar stitches are formed, said other thread tensioning means being controlled by the tension and feed of the thread, and mechanism between the last mentioned tensioning means and the buttonhole cutting; blade to permit operation of the latter, only when the stitches are properly formed 4-3. A. machine buttonhole comprising stitch forming mechanism, a buttonhole cutting blade, thread lTQllSlOlllIlg means oper ated and controlled by the tension and teed of the thread only when the stitches are properly formed, and means between said thread tensioning means and the buttonhole cutting blade to prevent operation of th latter, if the stitches are not properly formed.

44:. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, thread tensioning means operated and centrolled by the tension and feed of the thread only when the stitches are properly formed, andmeans between said thread tensioning means and the work clamp to prevent lifting blade, automatic tensioning means operable 1O to tension the thread while the main purl stitches are being formed, other thread ten sioning means controlled by the tension and feed of the thread only at the time the last end bar and additional purl stitches are being formed, and means between said other thread tensioning means and the cutting blade to permit operation of the latter only when the stitches are properly formed;

L6. In a stitching machine adapted to form a group of stitches comprising upper stitch forming mechanism, lower cooperating stitch. forming mechanism, lifting means, means for normally tensioning the thread during the stitch forming operation, other thread tensioningmeans controlled by the normal tension and feed of the thread when stitches are properly formed by the stitch forming mechanism, a cloth clamp,

means controlling the second mentioned tensioning means, tripping means to actuate the lifting means when the stitches are properly tensioned and placed.

47. A stitching machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, normal thread tensioning means, other thread tensioning means operated and controlled by the tension and feed of the thread only when the stitches are properly formed, said other tensioning means permitting of the raising of the work clamp only when the said stitches are properly tensioned and placed.

48. A buttonhole machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, awork clamp, a buttonhole cutting blade, thread trimming mechanism, thread tensioning means operated and controlled by the tension and feed of the thread only when the stitches are properly formed, and means between the said thread tensioning means and the buttonhole cutting blade and thread trimming mechanism to prevent the operation of said buttonhole cutting blade and said thread trimming mechanism if the stitches are not properly formed.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

HENRY C. MILLER. 

